Cycling Tuscany offers some challenges, as many of the villages were strategically placed at the top of a hill. However, you will be rewarded for your efforts with not only great views, but great food and wine as well. At one point, many of these city-states battled one another in an effort to see which would be dominant. Now they simply vie for tourists. If you travel there in the summer, there are a number of festivals to experience; some dating back nearly 1000 years, and some not to be missed.
In some of the other countries we have cycled, there is a large network of secondary roads; many of which date back before the World Wars. These offer the cyclist many choices to get off the beaten track. In Italy, there are fewer of these type roads; however, we found a number of very scenic routes and drivers were much more accommodating to cyclists on the road than to other drivers. Tuscany tends to be pretty warm in the summer months, so our plan was always to start early each day and try to arrive before the heat was too intense. Italy practices the long mid-day break, where most businesses close for 3-4 hours during the mid day. Don't expect to find shops and stores open, so plan ahead for your picnic lunch and for water. It is a good cycling time and you may see groups of Italians out for a brisk ride during that time. Follow the map as you read the following description of a round trip from Pisa Airport.
The first 25Km ( mile) ride starts at Pisa. The Pisa Airport is not large but is served by a number of carriers. It's not far from "Centro", the town center, where you may hook up with rail service to other points such as Florence...about an hour by train. We chose to cycle north from Pisa to Lucca. Leaving the Gallileo Airport outside Pisa, we go east on the main road from the terminal toward Centro. It is helpful to have a map of Pisa to negotiate your way through town. You will cross over the Arno river then follow the main street, Via Roma. The leaning tower and the Duomo are straight ahead. Rather than stop for a close look, we left this for the end of our tour and continued past and out the city wall to Via Contessa Matilde. This will become Strada Statale and it goes past Porta a Lucca. Shortly thereafter this becomes Route No. 12 or Via Lucchese. Follow this for another 6 km. Just before San Guiliano Terme, this branches into the 12 and the 12r. The choice here is either the shorter route Northeast toward S. Maria d. Guidice and S. Lorenzo.... through a tunnel or a longer route. We were prepared with lighting devices and the traffic was not too bad, so we chose the shorter route through the tunnel. Make sure you are prepared with lighting if you take this route. The road climbs and switchbacks up to the tunnel and you get your first glimpse of the Tuscan hills. After the tunnel, the terrain is more agricultural and fairly level into the walled city of Lucca.
Lucca has a number of streets where cars are prohibited. How nice to be a cyclist. The top of the city wall is a favorite spot for cycling, jogging or walking. You can even have a picnic on one of tables provided. From the Torre or tower in the center of town, you can view the hills all around Lucca and look down on the rooftops and cathedrals in town. This city was first colonized by Rome in 2 B.C. and at one time had a great deal of political and economic importance. Today, not much happens here, which is perfect for the cyclist.
The next day, we exited Lucca, through the fortress wall for a 49 Km journey to Vinci, the birthplace of Leonardo. We follow route 435 through Pescia, the flower growing capital, and the spa town of Montecatini Terme, then south on route 436 through Monsummano Terme and Lamporecchio to Vinci. There are no major climbs; mostly rolling hills. You will have a climb into Vinci itself, however. This quiet town has an excellent museum on the hill, devoted to models of many of the inventions of Leonardo, including the bicycle, diving bell, pontoons for water walking, to name a few. If your legs don't complain, you can continue walking through the hillside olive groves to the actual birthplace.
From Vinci, we consulted our maps for a route diversion due to construction. This actually worked out quite well. The third stage, 42 Km, took us toward Empoli, then along the Arno on route 67 through Montelupo and Lastra and then on to Florence. Along the way, there were stops at a roadside fruitstand for some delicious refreshments. There are no major climbs today; however the traffic will be pretty intense as you approach Florence. You'll be glad you're on a bicycle and not in a car.
We planned a stay of a few days in Florence, as there is so much to see. We also found it much easier in this busy city to sightsee on foot, with a side trip to the hill town of Fiesole to picnic in the ancient amphitheater and explore the ruins. With several renowned museums as well as cathedrals and markets to visit, there is plenty to fill your time. The evenings are filled with outdoor entertainment and the gelatti, ice cream, is not to be missed. If the crowds get to be too much, the Bobolli Gardens offer a quiet alternative as well as a wonderful view of the city below.
After a few days of the hustle and bustle of this Art center, we headed into the Chianti region south of Florence. This forth stage was a 30 Km ride in to the very heart of this wine country. There are climbs up and down throughout the day with vineyards all around. Leaving Florence's Oltraarno District where we stayed, you turn right and follow along the Arno until you reach Via Giampaolo Orsini. Continue until you reach the Piazza Ravenna, where you go right on Viale Donato Giannotti. Once you reach a fork, follow the sign for Grassina. In another few kilometers you reach Via dani Marla where you turn right at the light. You will pass through Badia and see the sign for SS222, or what the Italians call due, due, due. This road is very popular with both autos and cyclists. Stay on the SS222, finishing with a descent into the Greve valley. The quiet village of Greve is a wine center with a lovely town square, lined with flower decked terraces; a refreshing change from the big city.
From Greve, the climbing begins as you exit town for a 42 Km ride ending in Siena. This stage features plenty of switchbacks and climbing as you follow the SS222. You pass through Vitigliano and Panzano before reaching the highest point of our tour in Castillina in Chianti at 578 meters. This is a good place to stretch your legs and have some lunch. From there you descend past more vineyards on switchback roads past Forterutali and Quercegrossa; finally reaching Siena.
Ramparts still crown the hills which surround Siena. Until it was devastated by the Plague in the 13th and 14th centuries, Siena was a force as important as Florence. Now, with a population of about 60,000, it's much quieter than Florence; but still has much to see and do. If you are here during the famous Il Palio festivals, the population grows significantly as natives don ancient garb and perform ceremonies dating nearly 1000 year, culminating in a famous bare back horse race around the Campo which draws hundreds of thousands.
After the color and pageantry of Siena, the sixth stage is a 40Km ride to the hill town of San Gimignano. The elevation is moderately uphill for 4 kilometers, then rolling downhills for 30 kilometers until the last, challenging climb of 6 kilometers into San Gimignano. Exit Siena by retracing your entrance; making your way back to the SS222. Follow this to the intersection with route No.2 and take the left onto route No.2 to Monteriggione; which is worthy of a stop if you care to explore inside the fortress walls. Then follow Route 68 and bypass Colle de Val d’Elsa and head north through Borgatello to San Gimignano. Pace yourself, as the final climb into San Gimignano is a challenge.
In 12th Century San Gimignano there was a tower building frenzy that produced no less than 70 towers; each neighbor trying to outdo the others. Today, 13 remain, and you can still climb one for an even more spectacular view of the surrounding countryside. This town has the same auto restrictions, so it's great for cyclists and pedestrians. Don't miss the gelatto, as there are an abundance of sellers and the gelatto is delicious.
Stage seven goes from San Gimignano to Volterra... yet another hill town. For this 30 Km ride, you exit town through the San Giovanni Gate and descent following the city wall watching for signs to Volterra. Follow a series of switchbacks on a climb to San Donato and then on to Castel San Gimignano where Route 68 takes you directly to Volterra. There is a punishing 3 Km climb to reach Volterra, so keep your liquids up and gears down. Most of the town is off limits to cars, so this is another prime destination for cyclists looking for a challenge.
Volterra actually dates back to the stoneage. Today it's still surrounded by the walls build by the Etruscans and later the Romans. Within the walls are plenty of ruins to explore, as well as many shops selling carved alabaster.
The eighth stage is a 43 Km ride from Volterra to the spa town of Casciana Terme. On this stage we experienced some intense winds; making that 43 Km seem longer and causing us to gear down and pedal, even on the downhill switchbacks. Head right and downhill through a series of switchbacks out of Volterra. Watch closely for a blue road sign directing you to Cecina and Montecatini. It's easy to miss as you zip along downhill. This is your turn! Go right here. There is so little traffic on this quiet road that you may question whether you are on the intended route. There is a definite lack of roadsigns as well. Take pleasure in the solitude as you look out over the craggy terrain, caused by years of erosion. Eventually you reach a main road again, just before La Sterza. After passing through La Sterza, watch for signs to Ponsacco, then climb to Terricciola. At Centro, you turn left and wind through town following the sign to Casciana Terme. This is where the winds really became a bother. As you get closer to Casciana Terme the terrain is much more lush compared to the barren hills we’ve been riding. There are olive groves, vineyards and peach orchards. Finally Casciana Terme is in sight. This time, it's in a valley instead of on a hilltop. It's thermal springs were discovered in the days of Caesar and it's healing waters have been popular ever since.
From Casciana Terme, the ninth stage takes us back to the beginning at Pisa; a ride of 39 Km. You begin by climbing out of town, which is in a valley. Follow the signs to Casciana Alta. At the crest of our 1st major climb, ignore the turn and continue straight … downhill. Continue following in the direction to Pisa on moderately rolling hills and good roads. This will eventually lead to Laura. Enter Acciaiolo and turn right toward Fauglia. Go all the way through Fauglia; there will be a sign for Pisa. You descend into a valley with more sunflower fields and vineyards, then a climb to Collesalvetti. As you ride through Collesalvetti, watch for another sign directing you to Pisa. Keep following signs to Pisa as you head straight north on the S206. You pass through Vicarello, and continue along the SS206. Eventually the road goes under a freeway and you continue about ½ km where you’ll see the Pisa sign… you’re officially there. Cars have to take a circuitous route to get to the attractions, but bicycles are not so limited and can take smaller streets and alleyways directly to the tower area. Pisa has basically one attraction. And it draws visitors from everywhere.
 

If you'd like to know more details about this ride, check out our DVD.